this Summer the Monteverdi Choir follow the oldest and most famous of pilgrimage routes, el Camino de Santiago
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Pilgrims Progress

Thursday 24 June

What a day! Despite its inauspicious beginnings (a 6.45am start for me - positively civilised next to some people's 5am wake-up calls!), it has truly been a day to remember. A day of contrasts: from stormy Stansted to luxurious Las Canals, from the beatification of a statue to a loud football match. But let us begin at the beginning.

We arrived at Las Canals to a warm French 'bienvenue' - a sumptuous lunch in a medieval marquee. Let me expain - Las Canals is a beautiful chateau in a deep green valley, in the region of l' Aveyron. If ever Tolkien based his Rivendell on a reality this is it - peace, comfort and retreat from the world.

So after plates of saucisson and goblets of wine, we hoik ourselves up to the amazing church of St Jean le Froid - and it really is cold! - for a hilltop rehearsal. A public rehearsal, no less we were surrounded by keen and very supportive locals who met the music as we did! The rehearsal bodes well for what is yet to come - glorious music from Guerrero to Gesualdo, Byrd to Bouzignac!

Upon our return, after a relaxed yoga 'sesh' - it's a hard life! - we proceeded to the edge of Las Canals to participate in the beatification of a statue. An icon of the BVM has been brought to Las Canals by Georges and Odette, and tonight a priest performed the sacred ritual of blessing her, with music from one Monteverdi Choir - in the open air, under a cloudless sky, in the shade of oaks and planes - well, where else would she rather be?

To completely crush the holy atmosphere and complete our day of contrasts, the evening ended in a candle-lit three course meal, with Euro 2004 as background - or rather foreground - 'entertainment'. An unlikely end to an unlikely day - but a fine start to a once in a lifetime project.

P.S. Bonne Anniversaire à Marisa de Sabata! (Isabella's mother); what a way to celebrate your birthday!

ELIN MANAHAN THOMAS - soprano

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